The Cheesemonger's Kitchen

Fresh Goat Cheese "Pears" with Pistachio Dust

Burrata with Asparagus, Pine Nuts, and Golden Raisins

Roasted Butternut Squash with Fresh Tuscan Pecorino and Devil's Honey

Ricotta Fritters with Chocolate

Just in time for dinner party season.  Clever, creative, cheese-y ideas for both the savory and the sweet.......(having a very difficult time not drooling all over my keyboard).....Can you dig those pears!?  Roasted butternut discs with pecorino?  Buratta with asparagus!

I can't get over the simplistic beauty here, nor the crazy-tastiness.  Plus, I know texturally cheese can get a little tiresome, but Chester Hastings, Capt. Cheesemonger and Chef extraordinaire, has nailed nearly every suggestion in his new cookbook by pairing his arsenal of dairy with something either fresh, al dente, or kick-in-the-pants spice.

all images | by Joseph de Leo from The Cheesemonger's Kitchen

You can find this cookbook, as well as other glorious foodie books, and wonderful entertaining accoutrement at pod.  Right in Brookline Village.  

Would the Real San Marzano Please Stand Up?

When I need tomatoes (off-season), I pretend to be some snobby cook and collect pretty cans of San Marzano tomotoes:

image | cloudy iphone

The San Marzano tomato.  These iconic red plummy tomatoes are grown just outside of Naples, in the volcanic earth near Mt. Vesuvius - a super specific area that produces super juicy and super delicious tomatoes.  The go-to when it's NOT tomato season.  And apparently, not all San Marzanos are really from San Marzano.  Faux tomatoes, falsely labeled. *Gasp*

According to the Gusti Blog, written by Beatrice Ughi, an Italian-born, NY-based specialty food importer, there are several ways to identify the real San Marzano.  Herewith:

First thing you do, you check the tin's label:

it MUST say "Pomodoro San Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese Nocerino D.O.P."

it MUST have the symbol of the Consorzio;

it MUST have the symbol of the DOP;

it MUST have a "N° XXXXXXX", which is the Number assigned to the tin by the Consorzio.

With anything labeled organic, diced, chopped, pureed, etc. it gets even more complicated.  But. If you want the real deal, the San Marzano tomato makes all the difference in a solid authentically Penne all'Arrabbiata.

(credit goes to Diner's Journal for the scoop on this)

For the Discerning Cook.....

A mortar and a pestle:  kitchen essentials that take you back to the days of hunting, gathering, grinding, milling.....and it's on sale.  From British company, Mason Cash.Check it:

Mason Cash Mortar & Pestle | $36 @ swirl by daily candy

One Big Table

Illustration from "One Big Table"

Every Christmas I ask for a cook book.  Last year it wasn't so much a cook book as a collection of anecdotes from world chefs.  This year I'm particularly hoping for One Big Table: 800 Recipes from the Nation’s Best Home Cooks, Farmers, Pit-Masters and Chefs.

Written by NYTimes Staff writer, Molly O'Neil, One Big Table is an expansive collection of stories and recipes from some of America’s best home cooks.  And took years to conceive and create. With its deeply felt oral histories and cherished recipes gathered from cooks across America, this is a cookbook to be read as well as to cook from.

From Publishers Weekly:  

O’Neill, former New York Times Magazine food writer and author (New York Cookbook), has compiled an informative and heartwarming refutation of the demise of American home cooking. Ten years and many miles in the making, this collection celebrates the nation’s culinary diversity, both ethnically and agriculturally, and offers a uniquely intimate look at what home cooking in America is truly like today. O’Neill crossed the country, interviewing home cooks and spending time in the kitchens of recent immigrants.

from One Big Table.com

Channeling Martha

 
Just scored a ton of Mexican vanilla beans and a case of pretty, little bottles.  

Looks like homemade vanilla extract will find it's way to a coupla doorsteps this holiday-giving season. 

(and since I've already taken care of the holiday cards, maybe I can move a little more slowly over the next 4 weeks.  Jealous?)

Feeding the Senses

What's your favorite food movie?

I have two (because one is really never enough).

Babette's Feast (1987)

'Babette’s Feast' is the title of a short story by Karen Blixen, made into a remarkable film by Gabriel Axel in 1987. The feast in question is served in a poor, remote village in Calvinist Denmark, where the staple diet is ale-bread soup; the chef is Babette, a Catholic exile from France. 

The story is an allegory about the Last Supper, when divine fruitfulness overwhelms human sin and meanness.

Buono Biscotti

Brick-like biscotti.  If they're really good, they could transport you to some Italian cafe on the Piazza San Marco.  And who doesn't love a good crunch?  Maybe somebody with no teeth...maybe someone that just had their braces tightened...?

The very aged and teen mouth aside, I believe authentic biscotti to be one of the best crunchy cookies around.  Not too sweet.  Solid.  Dippable.  And crumbs galore.

And as I gear up for this holiday season's cook-a-thon that I always seem to find myself in (mostly, because the kitchen's the warmest room in our apartment) I wanted to give biscotti a try.

I had two recipes, one from Cook's Illustrated - of the spiced variety and one from epicurious - a chocolately-nutty variety.  Both were easy.  Both produced excellent cookies, but both were very different.  The Spiced Biscotti were smaller, not very sweet, amazingly crunchy, with a nice kicky flavor to it -perfect with a cup of warm tea or sweet latte. And much more like the cookies one would find in Italy.

Spiced Biscotti
(The New Best Recipe Cook Book | Cook's Illustrated)

    •    2 1/4 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
    •    1 teaspoon baking powder
    •    1/2 teaspoon baking soda
    •    1/4 teaspoon ground white or black pepper
    •    1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
    •    1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
    •    1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
    •    1/4 teaspoon salt
    •    2 cups sugar
    •    3 large eggs
    •    1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Heat oven to 350º and place rack in the middle position.  Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.  Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, spices, and salt together in a medium bowl; set aside.

Whisk the sugar, eggs, and yolks in a large bowl to a light lemon color; stir in the vanilla extract. Sprinkle in the dry ingredients over the egg mixture, then fold in until the dough is just combined.

Halve the dough and turn each portion on the prepared baking sheet. Stretch to 13x2 inch sized loaf. Bake until loaves are golden and just beginning to crack on top, 35 mins. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and place it on a wire rack.

 ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞

The Chocolate-Pecan Biscotti were much sweeter, much more like a dessert cookie.  Not quite the crunchy-madness as the previous recipe, but still a crumbly mouthful.  These could stand on their own.

Chocolate-Pecan Biscotti
(adapted from Bon Appétit | November 1999)

    •    1 1/2 cups pecans, toasted, chopped
    •    3 cups all purpose flour
    •    2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
    •    1 teaspoon baking soda
    •    1 teaspoon baking powder
    •    1/2 teaspoon salt
    •    1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
    •    2 cups sugar
    •    3 large eggs
    •    1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
    •    1/2 teaspoon Frangelico liquor
  
Preheat oven to 350°F. Line heavy large baking sheet with parchment paper. Grind 1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts in processor. Set aside. Whisk flour, cocoa, baking soda, baking powder and salt in large bowl. Beat butter and sugar in another large bowl to blend. Add eggs and vanilla and almond extracts and beat until well blended. Beat in flour mixture. Mix in 1 cup whole toasted hazelnuts, chocolate chips and 1/2 cup ground hazelnuts.

Divide dough into 2 equal pieces. Shape each piece on baking sheet into 2 1/2-inch-wide by 14-inch-long log. Place logs on prepared baking sheet, spacing 2 1/2 inches apart (logs will spread during baking). Bake until logs feel firm when tops are gently pressed, about 35 minutes. Cool logs on baking sheet 15 minutes. Maintain oven temperature.

Using long wide spatula, transfer baked logs to cutting board. Using serrated knife, cut warm logs crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Arrange slices, cut side down, on 2 baking sheets. Bake biscotti until firm, about 15 minutes. Transfer to racks and cool completely. (Chocolate-Hazelnut Biscotti can be prepared ahead. Store in airtight container up to 4 days, or wrap in foil and freeze in resealable plastic bags up to 3 weeks.)

And the best thing about these easy cookies is that they keep for decades weeks.

Pie in the Sky

This Fall, Pod, located right in our very own Brookline Village, is joining one of the world's greatest bake sales-Pie in the Sky.  Proceeds from this amazing effort go directly to feeding 750 critically ill neighbors and their families in Greater Boston. These meals not only feed the sick, they also keep families intact and provide hope for those who are unable to leave their homes.

Now in it's 18th year, Pie in the Sky involves more than 150 of Greater Boston's best chefs, restaurants, caterers, and hotels donating their time, talent, and resources to provide the freshest and finest Thanksgiving pies to each and every pie buyer--that's you!

So, here are the details: Now through November 17th, please donate or purchase pies from the Pod Team. Each pie (apple, pecan, pumpkin, sweet potato) is $25.00. You can purchase online here or come into Pod and order in person. Pies will be available for pickup AT POD Wednesday November 24th from 11am-6:30pm, as well as any of the other locations listed. The goal is 25 pies and with your help, Pod can do can reach this goal and help the many needy in Greater Boston!

pod
313 washington street
brookline, ma 02445
617.739.3802
www.shop-pod.com

  

Holy Moly, Aioli!

Sha-Zam!  Nothing as easy as this can elicit so many compliments, orgasmic-like reactions, and kitchen high-fives.  Basic ingredients + cheapo food processor and suddenly it's garlicky, creamy, mayonnaise that's takes you to the promised land.

 Homemade Aioli (from Bitten)

Yield 1 cup

Time 10 minutes

Adapted From "How to Cook Everything" by Mark Bittman

Ingredients

• 1 egg yolk or whole egg
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice or sherry or white wine vinegar
• 1 cup neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, or extra virgin olive oil, or a combination
• 2 cloves of garlic

Method

• Put the yolk or egg, mustard, salt, pepper and lemon juice or vinegar in the container of a food processor and turn the machine on. While it's running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. (Your food processor should have a teeny hole you may never have noticed in the insert -- the "food pusher" -- in the top; if it doesn't, you might want a different food processor.). When an emulsion forms you can add it a little faster. (Again, the little hole makes this unnecessary.) Add garlic. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.

Best Chocolate Mousse for a Camper's Homecoming

My 11 year old daughter returns from summer camp today.  This was her first foray into sleep-away camp, and I believe it was a huge success - at least from her end.  From my end, I missed her somethin' awful.  Pined for her, in fact.  I didn't completely lose it with the sad, sitting-on-her-bed-staring-at-her-empty room thing, that's so MTV 80's video.   No....instead, I just wrote her a letter everyday, sent her random stuff, and checked the camp website for any evidence of her face.

But before she left, I asked her what sort of homecoming she would like.  She responded with two requests, "w a g a m a m a" (a family fave in Harvard Sq.) and "homemade chocolate mousse".

or mousse au chocolat, as they say.  I can do that.  Seems easy enough - dangerously so, as a matter of fact.  And since I don't own an electric mixer, this was made old school-style- my hand whipping, like a fury.  Pretty funny, actually.  Couldn't talk to a soul while I was concentrating so hard on this ridiculously simple recipe.

Handmade, homemade mousse au chocolat

(from la tartine gourmand)

Ingredients:

• 150 g dark chocolate
• 1/2 cup (100 ml) cold heavy cream
• 10 g sugar
• 5 egg whites

Steps:

• Melt your chocolate using the bain-marie technique, or double boiler.
• Heat the cream until boiling.
• Add the cream to the melted chocolate and mix well together. It should thicken.
• Beat your egg whites firm.
• Before they are fully firm, gradually add the sugar and continue to mix.
• Then very carefully, add the egg whites to the preparation, making sure you do not “break” the eggs. Use a wooden spoon for best results.
• Place in individual cups or a large bowl.
• Chill for at least 1 hour before serving.

(image from epicurious)

The Long and the Short of it.

My baking skills suck. Basically, anyway. I have this wing-it attitude when I cook and it just doesn't apply to baking. I have tossed drippy ganache into the bin. I've burned countless cookies. Dry, gross quick breads, corn bread, muffins that my kids beg me not to take to their school breakfast......And most recently I tried to pass an inedible, damp, cold, rubbery raspberry clafoutis as a dessert.

I wouldn't care so much if I didn't have countless a fair amount of free time to hone my skills.

I think my recent obsession with baking started here, at forty-six at grace. I fell in love with Nikole's blog with these amazingly lovely shortbread cookies:





Aren't they the most beautiful, precious little circles you've ever seen? For the recipe, go here: Shortbread Buttons.

Another similar recipe that I have officially mastered, thanks to my friend Susan Levin and her support (and hand holding), is a slice and bake cookie. This recipe is almost shortbread and makes an excellent cookie for sandwich cookies:

Slice & Bake Cookies :: Cook's Country

Baker's note: better to use a food processor than a mixer. And if a processor is not available, I mastered these just fine by hand.

• 1/3 cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/s teaspoon salt
• 12 tablespoons butter, softened and cut into small pieces
• 2 teaspoons vanilla
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1. With a food processer (or mix by hand) blend salt and sugars until no lumps appear. Add butter, vanilla, and egg yolk. Process (or by hand) until mixture is smooth and creamy. Add flour and mix until dough forms.

2. Turn out dough to lightly floured work surface and roll into a 10" log. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until firm, 2 hrs.

3. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat to 350°. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Slice chilled dough into 1/4 inch rounds and place 1" apart on prepared baking sheets. Bake until edges are golden, 15 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes before transferring them.

Perfect as a sandwich cookie with a slather of Nutella, your favorite jam, or frosting.

And please take a minute to check out forty-six at grace.

What's the Very Best of Savory and Sweet?

I'm not a big ice cream nut. In fact, we always seem to have pints of chocolate crunchy frozen goo or minty nut creamy dream in the freezer. Sometimes even with freezer burn. At the end of a meal, I'd rather have a bite of Gorgonzola than dip a spoon into cold, creamy sweetness.

However, this past Saturday I had the immense pleasure of attending an underground supper. It was a covert dinner for the foodie-appreciative. The night was completely organized and comfortable. The menu, based primarily on locally raised and grown foods, was created by the hostess, Maura O'Toole. And suffice it to say, the food was amazing and the company outstanding. And to cap off this meal, we were served a rosemary honey ice cream that was just incredible.

For me it was the perfect combination of savory and sweet. Creamy rich rosemary woodiness with a touch of honey.

Maura O'Toole's
Rosemary Honey Ice Cream

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cook time: 5 minutes

Ingredients

• 2 cups heavy cream
• 2 cups half and half
• 32-42 rosemary sprigs
• 8 large egg yolks
• 2/3 cup honey

In heavy saucepan combine the cream, half and half, and the rosemary. Bring mixture just to a boil and remove the pan from heat. Let mixture stand for 15 minutes. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks, honey, and sugar. Add the cream mixture in a stream, whisking, and pour the mixture back into pan. Cook the custard over moderately low heat, stirring until it registers 170• on a candy thermometer. Strain through a fine sieve set over another bowl and let cool completely. Freeze the custard in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's direction. Makes about 1 and a half quarts.

Lemony warmth from Greece

The one thing that's going to cut through this endless rain we are enduring here in Boston?

Avgolemono Soup
(Greek Chicken Lemon Soup with Rice)

Ingredients

• 4 cups homemade chicken stock or low-sodium broth
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 2 cups cooked white rice, warmed
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 rotisserie chicken, meat pulled from the bones and coarsely shredded (1 pound)
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

Directions
In a large saucepan, season the stock with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Transfer 1 cup of the hot stock to a blender. Add 1/2 cup of the rice, the egg yolks and the lemon juice and puree until smooth. Stir the puree into the simmering stock along with the chicken and the remaining 1 1/2 cups of rice and simmer until thickened slightly, 10 minutes. Stir in the dill and serve.

What's better than warm, eggy, lemony soup with the heartiness of chicken and rice on a tortuously wet and cold day?

(Unless of course you prefer draping yourself in a comforter and shuffling around in slippers while you try to find the room without the draft.....)

How 'bout some cakes?

Since my son's birthday is fast approaching, I'm thinking it might be time to break out the cupcake pan.

These would probably work if he were turning 5.

Perhaps these, if he were 18 and feeling a little revengeful?

He is a huge carnivore. Or maybe too confusing?

Who wouldn't want a Gromitcake?

But I'm thinking, as much as I enjoy spending time in the kitchen creating and producing, I've never been very talented with the whole frosting-baking-sugar-fantastic world.

'Fraid my cakes are prolly gonna come out like these:

A beautiful study of spinach-speckled frosting on a over-cooked wad of cake.