domani l'Italia!

To Florence @ 4:00 am, 16 July, 2011 -  an ungodly hour to anyone - 'cept anyone that hasn't been to Florence, Italy. Or anyone that hasn't been to Florence in over 20 years, when you fell in love with both the man you'd marry and a country that made you swoon.

Since our two weeks in Brussels, we've had a lovely and short and fully loaded, three day stint in Paris.  We've been back in Brussels for the work week.  And tomorrow we leave for our official vacation.  Four years ago we took the family to the Amalfi coast, seaside lovers that we are.  This time we will be staying at an agriturismo,  a villa in Fiesole, that is known for it's Chianti and bold reds and spectacular views of the Arno river valley.

"Will we have to work on the farm?"

"Only if you're lucky."

Demain, Paris (avec les enfants)

And we're off to the City of Light tomorrow.  A quick visit, that will include something for the young folk (tourist-trap nation, I'm sure) and something for us (underground, secret awesomeness).

Maybe a picnic with the padlocks ("love locks") on Pont Des Arts.....

Or maybe a lot of oohing and ahhing while we pass by Notre Dame with a trip on the Seine.

and then a stroll through the Marais to Place de Vosges - 

And all those historic, ancient, fire-hazard-y restaurants that I love so much....

One thing you can bank on: we will walk, we will eat, we will drink, and we WILL take it all in.

Un Mois en Europe

Aaaaand we're off.  Heading back to Brussels with trips to London, Paris, Frankfurt, and maybe Zurich, ending with a sweet week in Florence. Four years ago we spent nearly two months in Brussels.  Last year, it was just a week.  I think a month will do us just fine.

I'll try to keep blogging....mostly with those random finds, discoveries, and oddities I come across.  The kids are older now, so I'm expecting it'll be a little easier - but then, that's probably a mistake.

A bientôt.

Les Maisons en Europe

Brussels

Amsterdam

London

Berlin

Switzerland

Florence

Paris

We are heading back for month of July this summer. Kids aren't so thrilled, but what do they know.  They know exactly nothing, that's what they know.  Actually, they know that the yogurt tastes way better in Belgium.  And they know that it's rainy and cold in July.  Aaaaaand they know that if you don't watch your step, you'll probably step in dog poo.  But maybe with more travel, we can be sure to show them clean sidewalks (London), yucky yogurt (Italy), and sparkling weather (Paris).

Hot and Heavenly Chocolate

It could be beef gravy with it's condensed and gelatinous, dark brown sheen - but it's really the best hot chocolate I've ever had.  Found here.  Recipe of the closest to this, found below.

Consider it medicinal and nothing more.  All the sweet, confectionery benevolence just slides down your throat, taking all your troubles away.

Combine 3/4 cup whole milk, 1/4 cup heavy cream and 1 t. confectioners' sugar and heat over med-high till bubbles appear around edges. Remove from heat and add 4 oz high grade bittersweet chocolate, such as Callebaut, Guitard, or even Ghirardelli (72% cacao) that's been chopped. Stir till melted (you may need to return it to low heat). Serve with whipped cream - but only if you want to cut the dark, richness with something light.

f l o r e n t :: 07.14

Bastille Day.  Nineteen years ago.  Destination : florent 69 Gansevoort St., NYC.

So much can be said about this institution.  It's nearly impossible to find anything like it 

these days....a french diner?   24 hour bistro?  And sadly, florent is no longer open.

From cookedbooks:

Restaurant Florent opened its doors at 69 Gansevoort Street in 1985 (Bryan Miller, in his 1986 New York Times review, called it "an Edward Hopper painting come to life"), and the restaurant remained a constant landmark in the Meatpacking District for nearly a quarter century, until it closed in 2008. While much has been written about Florent, the restaurant, and Florent Morellet, the restaurateur, the menu itself is one of the most potent reminders of the beloved eatery.

The menu was designed by the great graphic design firm M&Co., which was headed by Tibor Kalman (July 6, 1949 - May 2, 1999). Kalman was also the creative force behind the China Grill logo, the Talking Heads albums Remain in Light and Naked, Colors Magazine and much more. Kalman left the inside of the menu simple -- a playful retro design (in keeping with the diner atmosphere inside the restaurant) -- while displaying colorful maps of world cities in front, a different city for each menu. The result is a wonderfully clean design with a sense of humor and a clearly recognized brand.

When Florent closed, the [New York Public] Library was generously given a few menus for the collection -- all undated -- plus a 1985 menu from the restaurant's first year in business. I'm thrilled to have them included in the Library's archive.

More glorious menu samples *here*. 

Florent was so much more than a stylized diner.  It was an integral point in the development of the meatpacking district, pre-Jeffrey and pre-Pastis.

From NYMag::

.....Florent Morellet is the patron saint of the meatpacking district. His diligence in fighting for the integrity of this neighborhood, people with HIV/aids, the High Line, the right to die, and gay rights, among other causes, is humbling. And his annual Bastille Day party is more fun than anything they throw in Paris. Support his restaurant, because most likely he supports you and people you love.

It should also be noted that a documentary recently premiered at the New York City Food Film Festival.  (A word of warning: this trailer is NSFW)

le 14 juillet - Célébrons !

Hôtel Pont Royal

For five days and five nights in Paris, I would highly recommend the:

Hotel Pont Royal - Saint Germain des Près

7 rue de Montalembert
75007 Paris - France




Located right off of Rue St-Germain, on a quieter side street, Montalambert, this sweet little gem was perfect for our brief but full jaunt to Paris in December.

(and you'll notice that all these polished, stylized photos were taken straight from the website.)

the lounge.....


a view...



another view...



and the lobby...


We stayed here for two reasons, the location and the restaurant.

The location was right in the heart of the 6th arrondisement. Right where we like to be....walking distance to the Seine, the Latin Quarter, the Marais, and beyond.

And the restaurant is L'atelier de Joël Robuchon Restaurant.







Dressed only in red and black, the impression from this Michelin three-star chef's eatery is not one of warm and welcoming but stark and serious. That all dissipates the minute you sit down and waiters surround you with smiles, greetings, bread, information, and humor.

If you look closely at the photos, you can see the perfect example of food as art. Floating slices of cukes, carrots, and red pepper in oil? water? Colorful lentils layered in a vase. Perfectly placed apples.....all just there for you to stare at and enjoy along with the handsome staff of young men manning the stove, grill, oven, and crockpot. Okay - no crockpot but there was a load of quiet mystical culinary action just an arm's length from our seats - absolute cooking wizardry with wooden spoons as wands.

It's hard to go into all the detail about the 3 course meal we had without sounding a little repetitive. I can, however, easily point you in the direction of a better written review from NY Times, Mark Bittman.

Suffice it to say, it was absolutely the most amazing meal I have ever had. In my life.

Relais de L'Entrecote

We had five days, well, really four and a half. Our primary goal was to cover as much ground as we possibly could by foot while making sure we ended our day with some off-the-charts fabulous meal.

My husband and I have a couple of strategies when we travel - we never return to the same destination or spot twice, we never eat at the same restaurant more than once, and we basically plan our day around dinner - meaning we research, we plot out our walk, and we find gems along the way that are usually spontaneous and magical.

Yet, for this return to Paris we through out our reliable strategies and went back to a favorite haunt for our first dinner. Mostly because it's an institution, it's cheap, and it's solidly good, comfort, French bistro food. And maybe too much to choose from can be a bit overwhelming.

Le Relais de l'Entrecote - or L'Entrecote - as it's more widely known, is really more diner than bistro. We went to the original, in the 6e, right off of St-Germain for steak frites. The best steak frites.

There is no choice in food. And with decent options for wine, it's still best to go with the house wine. You are greeted with only one question: Quelle cuisson? (how would you like it cooked?). I went with rare, my husband went with medium.

You are served by one of a dozen women, dressed in a stereotypical french maid's uniform, handling deftly a pair of spoons in one hand, dishing out your cut of meat, frites, and the secret sauce on top.


With only one two course meal on the menu that includes a salad with warm walnuts and this crazy-awesome mustard vinaigrette:



and steak dressed in a mysterious greenish, savory goo, and fries:




(A word on the secret sauce: here's what I'm guessing - tarragon, maybe herbes de provence, mustard, parmesan, and maybe chicken livers?)

And you sit, take it all in, and dine on a fabulous plate of beef and potatoes. Old Style.

Paris au mois de décembre

Off to celebrate 15 years of marital bliss in 5 short days in Paris. I'll return with a full report.

Adieu.

I wish I were here right now.....

or here....


or here....


or even here, with the chill in the air and drizzle on my face....



possibly ending the day here....


or strolling here...

These and many more postcards of Paris can be found *here*, Rita Crane Photography.

Problem Solved!

French Market, $42 @ Medina Baskets

I may not have the opportunity THIS summer to stroll in my sandals around St-Germain and the markets of rue Cler, but at least I'll be at the ready.

Jardin du Luxembourg (the kid version), Paris

First, it was like the Bataan Death March for the kids. It was only a mile or so but I think we really pushed the whole walking thing with them. Let's just say it was our compromise....we walk among the Parisiennes, among the ancient streets and buildings. They get an awesome playground as a result.

Grand Bassin. A quick rest at the And then off to the fabled zip-lines at our destination. I think Scott and I have talked up this playground with the kids so much that they may have expected free candy, free anti-gravity boots and some Willy-Wonka-Wonderland upon arrival. Still.... the

zip-line was pretty cool.

So was the spinny-cup-for-kid thingy.

For lunch it was a picnic among the lovers strewn across the lawn in the garden. Fun to try explain what 'those grown-ups are doing' to the kids. It was also amazing how many times we heard a cork popping with a bottle of Champagne.

It was a perfect day. Sunny. Fun.

and tasty.

Ahhh. Our weekend in Paris was divine. It was a little hard keeping our plan to kid-inclusive activities but within three days we covered a lot of ground. Our hotel was perfectly situated, especially since we weren't there much. The major sights were seen and enjoyed. And Scott and I got our cheap wine, bread, cheese, pate', and etc. Now we're back in Brussels. Monday's tomorrow. Forecast is cloudy, 65 degrees. May just spend the day trekking to our English-only bookstore for Harry Potter and Tintin.