Italy's best Christmas Cake

Panettone.  I know....all of you Christmas bread haters, complainers of dry, fruity, brick-like loaves...you have good reason.  I know.  But this - this panettone.  Panettone.  Made by Italian hands, in a little coffee shop in the valley of Po, in the town of Bovolone, nestled between the Italian Alps to the north and the Apennines to the south, is beyond bread.  This panettone is set apart from others because of the natural yeasty magic and recipe that's been used since 1891.

Also, molten butter is added.  And some dazzling Italian sugar.  So, it's moist and soft.  And perfect in every way.

image | formaggio kitchen

And the twig tied to the package comes from a local Muscat grape vine - from the Valley of Po.  Making this not only a delicious gift, but a beautiful one, too.

You can find this and a whole world of other delectables at:

South End Formaggio

268 Shawmut Ave.

Boston, MA  02118

(617) 350-6996

Wild about Wild Boar

I had a reason to visit (yet another) South End Formaggio - or, really to get my monthly fix.  I wanted to spice up some hors d'oeuvres-y snacks I was putting together this past Friday night.

We found this amazing Wild Boar dried sausage (soppressata di cinghiale)  in Brussels a couple of summers ago. At one of those awesome outdoor markets.  Corsican wild boar.  So, you can imagine these feral pigs are eating all sorts of good Corsican nuts and berries and maybe a small Corsican animal or two.  That salami was sweet, robust, and a tad gamey.  And a perfect accompaniment to what was slowly becoming a predictable cheese plate.

And back to South End Formaggio - purveyors of just about everything delicious, crammed in a space no bigger than 30' x 20' (but still easy to lose yourself in thought).  I picked up a half a pound of their wild boar sopressata.  Theirs comes from Salumeria Biellese.  And these pigs are mostly raised in Texas, on a ranch, where they probably scamper about, play tag, or maybe set up a variety of houses to see which might get blown down - while gobbling up all kinds of yummy nuts, berries, and happy little animals.

Looking for something to add to your charcuterie - a party cure-all? something that tastes like maybe a little Mediterranean, a little rustic, and a little wild?  Grab a stick of wild boar dried sausage.  And serve immediately.

Would the Real San Marzano Please Stand Up?

When I need tomatoes (off-season), I pretend to be some snobby cook and collect pretty cans of San Marzano tomotoes:

image | cloudy iphone

The San Marzano tomato.  These iconic red plummy tomatoes are grown just outside of Naples, in the volcanic earth near Mt. Vesuvius - a super specific area that produces super juicy and super delicious tomatoes.  The go-to when it's NOT tomato season.  And apparently, not all San Marzanos are really from San Marzano.  Faux tomatoes, falsely labeled. *Gasp*

According to the Gusti Blog, written by Beatrice Ughi, an Italian-born, NY-based specialty food importer, there are several ways to identify the real San Marzano.  Herewith:

First thing you do, you check the tin's label:

it MUST say "Pomodoro San Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese Nocerino D.O.P."

it MUST have the symbol of the Consorzio;

it MUST have the symbol of the DOP;

it MUST have a "N° XXXXXXX", which is the Number assigned to the tin by the Consorzio.

With anything labeled organic, diced, chopped, pureed, etc. it gets even more complicated.  But. If you want the real deal, the San Marzano tomato makes all the difference in a solid authentically Penne all'Arrabbiata.

(credit goes to Diner's Journal for the scoop on this)

Bespoke Me

I know.  Me and scarves.  I have nothing short of an obsession.....and today's all about taming this Brian May head of hair I've got, due to the rain and the humidity.  And the rain.  So, a well-arranged scarf seems like just the ticket to solve my frizz-a-thon.

Only this scarf is different.  Bespoke.  By Hayden-Harnett, those ever-so craft devils from Brooklyn, NY.

"Your image.  Your imagination.  Your scarf."  On either sand-washed silk or silk chiffon.  In four sizes.  I went for the gargantuan 40x40.  Natch.  And three weeks delivery seemed fair enough.

image | by me capri 2007

And until 9/1, save 50% with BESPOKEME at checkout.

of Monks and Potions

image | teelicht

Since the 1400's, Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella has been producing all sorts of balms and creams and tinctures of herbal wonder.  In 1612, the Dominican monks opened this farmacia to the public.  It is now one of the oldest in the world.  And we were lucky enough to literally stumbled upon it as we were headed to the Florence train station.

It's claimed that not many of the original recipes have changed much over the past gajillion years.   It certainly was one of the most spectacular sites we came upon on Florence. 

and nearly all the flowers and herbs and natural whatnot is grown in the hills of Florence - just for the added local Florentine magic.

My Gosh - What Ganache!

Being one that has something close to an obsession to sweet and savory combinations (and would dip french fries into my chocolate frosty when I was college), this ganache that we had in Florence, made with the oil from local, organic olives was molto delizioso.

I can't say enough about this recipe and how mighty fantastic and easy it is to whip together. Given to me by our hostess, Elisabetta Galardi of Fattoria di Poggiopiano, it's like nearly every recipe from Italy: a few, simple ingredients of the freshest quality makes for a non-fail dish.

all images | londoneats

For the chocolate and olive oil ganache:

• 8 oz. dark, semi-sweet chocolate (64%), chopped into small pieces
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 cup white sugar
• 1/2 cup olive oil

Heat the cream and sugar in a saucepan. Boil for 30 seconds. Pour over the chocolate, and stir until smooth (if not all of the chocolate melts, return to the saucepan and warm very gently until smooth, and return to the bowl).

Allow the mixture to cool slightly, and add the olive oil, stirring constantly. Allow to cool completely until firm (in the fridge, if necessary).

Serve on warm toasted sourdough bread, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle some kosher salt over the top - take a bite, close your eyes, sit back, and sigh (and maybe you'll find yourselves in Tuscany).

domani l'Italia!

To Florence @ 4:00 am, 16 July, 2011 -  an ungodly hour to anyone - 'cept anyone that hasn't been to Florence, Italy. Or anyone that hasn't been to Florence in over 20 years, when you fell in love with both the man you'd marry and a country that made you swoon.

Since our two weeks in Brussels, we've had a lovely and short and fully loaded, three day stint in Paris.  We've been back in Brussels for the work week.  And tomorrow we leave for our official vacation.  Four years ago we took the family to the Amalfi coast, seaside lovers that we are.  This time we will be staying at an agriturismo,  a villa in Fiesole, that is known for it's Chianti and bold reds and spectacular views of the Arno river valley.

"Will we have to work on the farm?"

"Only if you're lucky."

Un Mois en Europe

Aaaaand we're off.  Heading back to Brussels with trips to London, Paris, Frankfurt, and maybe Zurich, ending with a sweet week in Florence. Four years ago we spent nearly two months in Brussels.  Last year, it was just a week.  I think a month will do us just fine.

I'll try to keep blogging....mostly with those random finds, discoveries, and oddities I come across.  The kids are older now, so I'm expecting it'll be a little easier - but then, that's probably a mistake.

A bientôt.

Les Maisons en Europe

Brussels

Amsterdam

London

Berlin

Switzerland

Florence

Paris

We are heading back for month of July this summer. Kids aren't so thrilled, but what do they know.  They know exactly nothing, that's what they know.  Actually, they know that the yogurt tastes way better in Belgium.  And they know that it's rainy and cold in July.  Aaaaaand they know that if you don't watch your step, you'll probably step in dog poo.  But maybe with more travel, we can be sure to show them clean sidewalks (London), yucky yogurt (Italy), and sparkling weather (Paris).

Ricotta Fresca - il Ricotta dalla Mano

Research

Frothy cauldron of dairy

dairy heated to 175°-180°

gauze-y receptacle at the ready

curds + whey

firm-ish ricotta, but not quite ready

Qui è! - il Ricotta dalla Mano

Ricotta by Hand (il Ricotta dalla Mano) 
Ingredients

• 4 cups whole milk
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons good white wine vinegar

Set a large sieve over a deep bowl. Dampen 2 layers of cheesecloth with water and line the sieve with the cheesecloth.


Pour the milk and cream into a stainless-steel or enameled pot. Stir in the salt.  Bring to 175º-180º, over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat and stir in the vinegar. Allow the mixture to stand for 1 minute until it curds form.   It will separate into thick parts (the curds) and milky parts (the whey).


Pour the mixture into the cheesecloth-lined sieve and allow it to drain into the bowl at room temperature for 20 to 25 minutes (or more, depending on preferred consistency), occasionally discarding the liquid that collects in the bowl. The longer you let the mixture drain, the thicker the ricotta.  Transfer the il ricotta dalla mano to a bowl, discarding the cheesecloth and any remaining whey. Dance a jig, for you have successfully made cheese at home.  Use immediately or cover and refrigerate. The ricotta will keep refrigerated for 4 to 5 days.

And will probably go very nicely with some Blueberry+Thyme Jam.

 

Oh jeez, here we go

It usually comes in the form of some innocuous email - some travel deal advertisement that sends me into the computer-stare-zone.  For like maybe an hour.  Total daydream.  With my eyes and mouth wide open.  I can't hear anything.....I can't really do anything....other than imagine myself right there, in that chaise staring out at the glorious Mediterranean.

raito hotel • amalfi coast

Mille Grazie

My ever-generous neighbors - the ones that live below us, the ones that live below us and have suffered through my son's love of cowboy boots and trucks, thundering lacrosse balls, basketballs,  wii games, and now the rare but occasional temper and rage of a 7th grader - those neighbors that are so giving and forgiving, so other wordly nice and warm - recently bequeathed to me a cookbook.  A really nice cookbook.  A cookbook that they swear by, which means everything to me. 

And this cookbook happened to be Nate Appleman's A16.

A16 is both a restaurant/wine bar in SF and also the highway that runs east and west, through the Campania region in Southern Italy.  I have not been on A16.  I've been on A3 and was lost on SS145, when we took a trip to Sorrento and Massa Lubrense. 


The recipes are not your basic how-to's, although there are some very simple ones. They are more complex, but not complicated.  They require some studying and some homework.  And all this effort is completely worth the outcome.  Particularly, if the outcome transports you to the warm and delicious Naples and Puglia. 

And after thumbing through this cookbook, I hope I can get lost on A16.

Come with me

If I stare at this long enough, do you think I could squish through my computer screen and fly to Italy?  Fiesole, to be exact.

Get lost, forget your winter-y troubles, warm yourself here:  Villa San Michele.  Right outside of Florence.  In the hills.

A Good Soak

Two things: soaking beans makes for a nice New Year's metaphor* and it's soup country at 33 Kent street.


Dried, colorless, crunchy pebbles slowly, gently, even quietly become soft, round, flavorful packs of protein.  They are rejuvenated.  They are reborn.  You could even say they go through their own little renaissance through a good soak.


*(with apologies to all black-eyed pea soakers on 12/30)


And so it was with this observation that I charged into winging a Tuscan Bean soup dish that I recently had at Michael White's Osteria Morini.  His version was probably made with veal stock.  And I imagine his had some magical Italian pixie dust sprinkled into it while mine is much more every-day-kitchen friendly.  Plus, mine only takes roughly 3 hours while his may take an army of kitchen staff, days on end, and maybe countless ingredients.  And probably some slaughtering involved.

The healthy-hearty result and very easy recipe follows.

Tuscan Barley and Bean Soup

Yield: Makes 8 to 10 servings

1 cup dried cannelloni beans
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus additional for drizzling
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
1 celery rib, coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1 lb. Italian chicken sausage, finely chopped
1 qt. chicken stock
6 cups water
1/4 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
10 fresh sage leaves
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 cup whole-grain barley
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1.5 oz. Demi-Glace Gold™ (closest thing to pixie dust)
1/4 cup half and half

Pick over and rinse beans. Soak in cold water to cover by 2 inches at least 8 hours and up to 12 hours. Alternatively, quick-soak beans(see note). Drain well.

Heat oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook onion, carrots, celery, and garlic, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 10 minutes. Add sausage.  Cook through, 5 minutes. Stir in chicken stock and water, sage, parsley, and thyme and bring to a boil.  Slowly add the beans and then reduce heat and cook at a bare simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally and adding more water if necessary to keep beans covered, until beans are tender, 1 hour.  Add Demi-Glace, cook another 30 minutes.

Discard thyme sprigs.  Add barley and salt, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until barley is tender, about 15 minutes. Finish with half and half.  Stir in pepper and serve drizzled with additional oil.

 Notes:
· To quick-soak, put beans in a 4- to 5-quart pot and cover with cold water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, uncovered, then boil 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, 1 hour before draining.
· Soup can be made 5 days ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Thin with water when reheating.

Something Manly to go with that Delicate Cheese?

Mostardo.  Italian preserved fruit.  Made with a little bit of mustard, just for a kick to remind you that your mouth has not entirely entered into a world of frilly, frou-frou, syrupy fruit.

Mostardo Luccini

The pumpkin mostardo, seen here, is particularly delicious.  Not too sweet, not too slimy.  With the perfect snap that will keep you from falling into a cheese coma.
 
And in my mind, probably the best thing that can accompany a gooey cream-dream cheese, like pave d'affinois.

And likely the best thing to serve quietly, after a Thanksgiving meal, that might knock some socks off.  Just a little taste.

Really.  That's all that's needed. 

And perhaps a nap.


(A grand selection of imported mostardo can be found at Formaggio Kitchen and South End Formaggio.)



It's also amazingly easy to make.  See a tried and true recipe below:



Dried Apricot and Cherry Mostardo
(from food & wine)

Ingredients
        1/4 pound dried apricots, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
        1/4 cup dried cherries, coarsely chopped
        1 shallot, minced
        1 1/2 teaspoons minced crystallized ginger
        1/2 cup dry white wine
        3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
        3 tablespoons water
        3 tablespoons sugar
        1 teaspoon dry mustard
        1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
        1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Directions
    In a small saucepan, combine the apricots, cherries, shallot, ginger, wine, vinegar, water and sugar and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over moderate heat until the liquid is absorbed and the fruit is softened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the dry mustard, Dijon mustard and butter. Simmer until the mostarda is jamlike, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Serve the mostarda warm or at room temperature.

Make Ahead
The mostarda can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
 
Notes
Best Uses Serve the mostarda alongside charcuterie or cheese, or spread on a sandwich. The mostarda is also delicious with grilled chicken, steak, pork, lamb and sausages.

Buono Biscotti

Brick-like biscotti.  If they're really good, they could transport you to some Italian cafe on the Piazza San Marco.  And who doesn't love a good crunch?  Maybe somebody with no teeth...maybe someone that just had their braces tightened...?

The very aged and teen mouth aside, I believe authentic biscotti to be one of the best crunchy cookies around.  Not too sweet.  Solid.  Dippable.  And crumbs galore.

And as I gear up for this holiday season's cook-a-thon that I always seem to find myself in (mostly, because the kitchen's the warmest room in our apartment) I wanted to give biscotti a try.

I had two recipes, one from Cook's Illustrated - of the spiced variety and one from epicurious - a chocolately-nutty variety.  Both were easy.  Both produced excellent cookies, but both were very different.  The Spiced Biscotti were smaller, not very sweet, amazingly crunchy, with a nice kicky flavor to it -perfect with a cup of warm tea or sweet latte. And much more like the cookies one would find in Italy.

Spiced Biscotti
(The New Best Recipe Cook Book | Cook's Illustrated)

    •    2 1/4 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
    •    1 teaspoon baking powder
    •    1/2 teaspoon baking soda
    •    1/4 teaspoon ground white or black pepper
    •    1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
    •    1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
    •    1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
    •    1/4 teaspoon salt
    •    2 cups sugar
    •    3 large eggs
    •    1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Heat oven to 350º and place rack in the middle position.  Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.  Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, spices, and salt together in a medium bowl; set aside.

Whisk the sugar, eggs, and yolks in a large bowl to a light lemon color; stir in the vanilla extract. Sprinkle in the dry ingredients over the egg mixture, then fold in until the dough is just combined.

Halve the dough and turn each portion on the prepared baking sheet. Stretch to 13x2 inch sized loaf. Bake until loaves are golden and just beginning to crack on top, 35 mins. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and place it on a wire rack.

 ∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞∞

The Chocolate-Pecan Biscotti were much sweeter, much more like a dessert cookie.  Not quite the crunchy-madness as the previous recipe, but still a crumbly mouthful.  These could stand on their own.

Chocolate-Pecan Biscotti
(adapted from Bon Appétit | November 1999)

    •    1 1/2 cups pecans, toasted, chopped
    •    3 cups all purpose flour
    •    2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
    •    1 teaspoon baking soda
    •    1 teaspoon baking powder
    •    1/2 teaspoon salt
    •    1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
    •    2 cups sugar
    •    3 large eggs
    •    1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
    •    1/2 teaspoon Frangelico liquor
  
Preheat oven to 350°F. Line heavy large baking sheet with parchment paper. Grind 1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts in processor. Set aside. Whisk flour, cocoa, baking soda, baking powder and salt in large bowl. Beat butter and sugar in another large bowl to blend. Add eggs and vanilla and almond extracts and beat until well blended. Beat in flour mixture. Mix in 1 cup whole toasted hazelnuts, chocolate chips and 1/2 cup ground hazelnuts.

Divide dough into 2 equal pieces. Shape each piece on baking sheet into 2 1/2-inch-wide by 14-inch-long log. Place logs on prepared baking sheet, spacing 2 1/2 inches apart (logs will spread during baking). Bake until logs feel firm when tops are gently pressed, about 35 minutes. Cool logs on baking sheet 15 minutes. Maintain oven temperature.

Using long wide spatula, transfer baked logs to cutting board. Using serrated knife, cut warm logs crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Arrange slices, cut side down, on 2 baking sheets. Bake biscotti until firm, about 15 minutes. Transfer to racks and cool completely. (Chocolate-Hazelnut Biscotti can be prepared ahead. Store in airtight container up to 4 days, or wrap in foil and freeze in resealable plastic bags up to 3 weeks.)

And the best thing about these easy cookies is that they keep for decades weeks.

If you love food and you love design...

"The Geometry of Pasta pairs over 100 authentic recipes from critically acclaimed chef, Jacob Kenedy, with award-winning designer Caz Hildebrand’s stunning black-and-white designs to reveal the science, history and philosophy behind spectacular pasta dishes from all over Italy.

A stunning fusion of design and food, The Geometry of Pasta tells you everything you need to know about cooking and eating pasta like an Italian."



The right pasta with the perfect sauce. With Italian design.  On Amazon.

Family Comfort Food

(bolognese at sportello from thecincygobbler)

A couple of weeks ago, Scott and I went to sportello for our wedding anniversary.  sportello is local chef-cum-restaurateur Barbara Lynch's take on an urban Italian diner, serving homemade, comfort-y, pastas, soups, and the like.

It was mighty tastey.  Perhaps not the most romantic but the food and wine was exceptional.

So exceptional, that I requested the recipe for one of the dishes that we ordered, the tagliatelle alla bolognese.  What made this sublime was an earthy flavor that can only be found in the addition of the chicken livers.

We've got a big Sutton family gathering coming up this Columbus Day weekend.  I figure hearty + comfort might keep everyone behaving - and then should send folks into a good and proper food coma.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 large stalk celery, diced
1 large carrot, diced
5 oz. chicken livers, trimmed and finely chopped
1/4 chopped fresh sage
1.5 lbs total of ground veal, pork, and lamb
1.5 cups red wine
1.5 cups chicken or beef stock
1.5 chopped canned tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
1 cup heavy cream
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Salt and pepper

Heat olive oil in a large deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat.  Add the onion, celery, and carrot, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender.  8 to 10 minutes.  Add the chicken livers and sage, season with a little salt and pepper, and cook, stirring until the livers lose their red color, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the ground meats in batches, letting it brown a little before adding more.  Season with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper, and cook, stirring until no red or pink color remains.  Pour off most of the fat.  Add the wine, increase the heat to high, and boil the wine until it's almost gone, 10 to 15 minutes.  Add the broth, tomatoes, and basil.  Bring to a boil and then adjust the heat to a gentle simmer.  You should see an occasional bubble but not a boil.  Cook, uncovered, until the sauce is thick, dark, and rich, about 1 hour.  Stir in the cream, if using, and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes to heat it through.

Serve with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

It's in the air.....

Italy.  Can you smell it?  Ever so lemon-y, with the sun dipping slightly in the sky with the shorter days....and the basil.  And maybe a little tomato, Buffalo mozzarella....it basically reeks of Caprese Salad, people. 

Scott and I celebrated our 15 years of marital bliss last year with a trip to Paris and this year we thought we'd tip our hat to Italy, with a little dinner party for a few of our back-to-school friends.

On the menu, we'll have the maybe-prosaic-but-also-loved::

Limoncello and Prosecco with a dash of basil.

Insalata Caprese

Prosciutto e Melone

Honey Tomato Bruschetta with Chestnut Honey

Cerignola olives, Arugala and Bresaola Salad

A plate of stinky Italian cheeses

and we'll laugh...and laugh....and wish we were all sitting *here* with our kids, that weren't quite back to school.